FEATURES ARCHIVE

Who were your early inspirations and what were the formative experiences that lead you to pursue a career in wine?
I trained originally as a chef, doing the Grande Diplôme at Le Cordon Bleu Paris and apprenticing at the Hôtel Crillon. Any spare time I had was spent visiting different regions of France and exploring the vineyards as well as the gastronomic products. That’s really where I fell in love with wine. When my daughter was born, I decided it was time to abandon the chef’s lifestyle, and I entered the world of wine.

The MW behind your name means you are a Master of Wine. How many people have the Master of Wine title worldwide? What does it take to become one? It must be quite hard given that there are so few …
There are around 275 Masters of Wine internationally; 26 are American. I became a Master of Wine in 2004, which was an incredibly challenging yet rewarding process. The two-year program culminates in a four-day exam that includes blind tastings and a 10,000-word thesis. Overall, it took me 6 years to complete the WSET (the Wine and Spirit Education Trust) credentials and to receive the MW.

What inspired you to join Christie’s?
Michael Broadbent MW – and his “Great Vintage Wine Book” – was one of the first books that grabbed my attention, and I have since read it many times. The book is filled with thorough and complete descriptions of fine and rare wines that many will never taste. I especially enjoy that it is sprinkled through with reminiscences of his personal experiences. Since Michael was associated with Christie's (and still works as a senior consultant), I knew that this was the place for me.

Red or white?
Bubbly. I’m a real Champagne fanatic – not to slight red or white, however, since they all have a place at the table.

What “merits” a glass of champagne?
Another day above ground!

Which New York city restaurant’s wine list do you lust after the most, and why?
There are so many!! Cru and Veritas both have amazing lists, as does Restaurant Daniel – these are the real classics of New York. I love the list at Alto, because of its quirky Italian selections that supplement the classics, I love the list at River Café because of the great Madeiras, and I love the list at Sparks because of the bargains that you can find. The most fun, though, has to be Tomasso in Brooklyn, known only to true wine fanatics.

What wine in your March sale would you most like to acquire for your personal cellar?
Just one of the strengths of this sale is that we have multiple full cases from the 1988 vintage of all of the first growth Bordeaux and many others – Latour, Lafite, Mouton, Margaux, and Haut-Brion, as well as Pavie, Lynch-Bages, Pichon Lalande, and Beychevelle. The year 1988 was regarded as very strong at the time but it has since been overshadowed by the ’89 and ’90 wines from Bordeaux, which were great vintages. These ‘88s are very reasonably priced, and something that I’d love to acquire myself.

Eric Asimov, wine critic for the New York Times, recently published an article entitled, “Wine Auctions Become a Buyer’s Market.” He discusses the advantages to buying in today’s climate as auction prices are at a low, and there are great bargains to be had. What are your thoughts on this?
I definitely think that now is a great time to buy. Most of the wines in our March auction, including Margaux, Latour and Mouton, are conservatively estimated, reflecting new market realities.

What are some trends in wine collecting that you are seeing in early 2009?
The market for Bordeaux is now focusing in two directions: on what is truly old and rare, and on the value wines which can be acquired at a reasonable price today and will likely gain value over time. Burgundy is perennially in fashion because the quantities available are so limited, and collectors always like rarity. Regions such as Champagne and the Rhône are still very lively, and more collectors seem to be branching out and exploring them.

What kind of advice would you offer to new collectors? How would you recommend they learn the value of different vintages?
My best advice to new collectors is “The more you drink, the more you know.” I mean that only partly tongue-in-cheek: it’s only with wide-ranging tasting experience that one will come to know the world of wine and which wines are the most compelling. I encourage everyone to try as much as possible! And for those still refining their olfactory memory, it always helps to keep notes on what you drink -- I always carry a small notebook in my pocket to write down my thoughts while they’re fresh in my head.