How did you first become involved in jewelry?
I would say that I was born a collector; even as a child I was collecting small things. I knew I wanted to work for an auction house and after studying at the Courtauld Institute of Art, my first job, purely accidental, was selling antique Jewelry. I developed a passion for small, fine things and was told I had an eye for detail. I was encouraged to sit the gemology exam, this led to the diamond grading exam and after working as an auctioneer’s clerk and then as a porter, I became a fully-fledged Jewelry specialist.
Has a piece of jewelry ever left you speechless?
I was once shown an early Renaissance jewel during a routine valuation. This hadn’t been seen for over 100 years since an exhibition of Tudor jewelry in the 1890s. A gift from Catherine Parr, the last of Henry VIII’s six wives. It still remains with the owner and I felt very privileged to see it. Another instance, which was a real team effort, was a fancy grayish-blue diamond of 7.81 carats, which was later sold at King Street for a world record price. Of course, I witnessed some truly exceptional pieces as I worked from the very beginning on the Princess Margaret sale held on 13 June 2006.
What should you consider when investing in an important piece of jewelry?
I firmly believe you must love it first. Quality, great design and workmanship is also key, and this is where our expertise will prove useful. We are here to de-mystify the process: to show you that sapphires come in different colours, not just blue, or that there are unusual and beautiful stones such as kunzite (lilac-pink) or spinel (in a variety of colours e.g. red and blue).
Where should you start?
A good place to start would be with a classic piece such as an art déco diamond bracelet or diamond ear studs, which surpass the rise and fall of fashion trends and remain eminently wearable pieces. Often undiscovered but certainly worth a closer look are the beautifully designed brooches we offer. They can also be converted into the centerpiece of a choker or the panel on a bracelet. Our sales always feature the essentials: wristwatches, eternity rings, diamond ear studs and cultured pearls. The quiet elegance of antique Jewelry is proving very popular again. We also have pieces from 1930s and1950s which contain older stones. There is a unique charm in jewels which are recycled in this way as they have often lived many ‘lives’.
Jewelry has traditionally been bought as a gift but times are changing. Do you find that people are now buying jewelry for themselves?
Yes, this has become a growing trend. As with all gifts, there’s always that chance you’ll get it wrong! We are finding that many people come to us looking for a particular piece to fit a certain outfit, or to fill a gap in their jewelry box. Many people buy and sell regularly, updating their Jewelry box as they would their wardrobe and South Kensington is ideally suited to this. Wristwatches, as well as 1960s and 1970s jewelry, with its bold sculptural style, are perfect for those looking to impress in the boardroom.
Why buy jewelry at auction?
Buying at auction offers diversity; you are more likely to discover esoteric, quirky pieces. You can just pop in and see us without an appointment and there is the fun of browsing at a pre-sale viewing each month and, without a doubt, the thrill of the auction itself. We pride ourselves on the close relationships we form with clients. There is something immensely satisfying in seeing a couple get the engagement ring they have been hoping for.
Related Departments
Jewelry
Watches & Wristwatches